MakeUp in World

2024 May, 29 & 30

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European Skincare and Makeup trends

The new faces of the medical world


Since the covid era, we’ve been witnessing a revaluation and expertise of science and the medical approach within the beauty territory. The number of clinical brand launches has exploded, shattering the market by offering a multiplicity of products far removed from the traditional medical codes of white packaging and the classic figure of the dermatologist in a white coat.

Today, medical brands are completely renewing this universe, not only in terms of their product offering, but also in their communications and the scientific figures who embody them. Today, a wide range of expert profiles are making their voices and expertise heard, responding to the new needs and profiles of consumers who are ever more avid for scientific knowledge.

The Aesthetic Surgeon
With the boom in aesthetic procedures in recent years, the plastic surgeon is emerging as the new expert figure of the moment! The virality of social networks is fuelling this trend, with many consumers closely following the latest aesthetic trends and their favourite surgeons. Surgeons are well aware of this, and are democratizing education around procedures, while leveraging the popularity of before-and-after images as a marketing tool. It was only natural, then, that they should launch their own brands to rejuvenate and modernize the world of cosmetic procedures. These are generally inspired by the doctor’s signature aesthetic practices and protocols. A case in point is Dr Diamond’s Metacine, founded by American celebrity plastic surgeon Dr Jason B. Diamond, who promises to offer “clinical results without the doctor’s appointment”, or Dr. Julius Few’s Dr.Few brand based on the concept of “stackable treatments”, a series of six formulas to be compiled for greater effectiveness. Finally, the Pers Skincare brand is inspired by French star surgeon Antoni Calmon’s four-step medical protocol to “Protect – Beautify – Repair and Stimulate” the skin.

The Allergist
Today, according to an Aveeno study, 71% of adults claim to have sensitive skin. Based on the premise that a woman can put up to 500 chemicals a day on her body, American allergist and immunologist Dr. Martin Smith has launched his Untoxicated brand. He openly points the finger at the dermatological endorsement that has long been at the forefront, and offers his certified products “formulated by an allergist” aimed at soothing and repairing the most sensitive skin without any irritation-triggering ingredients. The Evme brand, co-founded by MIT allergist and immunologist Dr. Anjuli Mehrotra and Harvard chemical engineer Dr. Ling Wong, positions itself in a luxury niche with a promise of “allergen-free” ingredients, considering the “hypoallergenic” label far from rigorous enough for the most sensitive and allergic skins.

The Mom Doctors
They’re dermatologists, they’ve got two or three kids, and they’ve launched their own beauty brand for young children. They are the Moms in MedicineTM of the Ever Eden brand, whose expertise as mothers is matched by their scientific background, all of them coming from the most prestigious American medical schools. They offer skincare and make-up products for the whole family, guaranteed to “meet mommy standards” in terms of both safety and scientific performance.

Others: La Chimiste Cosmétologue, L’Infirmière, La Dermatologue specializing in skin of color…
Other brands are taking the medicalization route while consolidating their specific expertise. Such is the case of Alex Padgett, a cosmetology chemist, and his Educated Mess brand, which combines a scientifically advanced educational approach with a fun, playful and desirable skincare dimension. Antonia Philip, a pediatric nurse in intensive care, has long had chapped hands to the point of bleeding due to dozens of daily washes. After seven years of development with a group of British nurses and laboratories, she launched her Nursem skincare brand. Jamaican dermatologist Rose Ingleton focuses on the specific concerns of skin of color with her Rose Ingleton MD brand, all with a clean, simplified approach.

And this is just the beginning. With the cosmetics revolution underway in the field of longevity and the technological upheavals in the healthcare sector, the consequences for the medicalization of the beauty market will be numerous, and will lead to the emergence of new, ever more specialized, expert figures.


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