MakeUp in World

18 & 19 September 2024

From 9am to 5pm - Javits Center

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MakeUp in NewYork Ambassador Announcement : Ewelina Aiossa

Ewelina Aiossa Ambassador

Introducing our new Ambassador for Makeup in NewYork, expert in skincare. Her extensive experience and knowledge have shaped her understanding of the industry, making her an invaluable addition to our event. Discover her insights on the evolving relationship between skincare and makeup, as well as the current trends and emerging innovations in the beauty industry.

MUNY: Can you tell us about your journey in the skincare industry, from your early days at Topix Pharmaceuticals to your current role as a clinical skincare expert and brand architect? How has your experience shaped your understanding of the industry?

I started my career in the field of scientific skincare at Topix Pharmaceuticals, Inc., a leading supplier of custom-branded skincare products and a partner in many beauty companies’ contract manufacturing. I worked with both emerging and well-established companies, assisting with product portfolio expansion, developing cutting-edge formulations, identifying hero SKUs, and discovering new indications for current products. I’ve had the privilege of working with and learning from some of the brightest minds in the business, including dermatologists, researchers, cosmetic chemists, and seasoned R&D professionals, and incubating several beauty lines for retailers and investors. My enthusiasm and love for the scientific approach to beauty were influenced by my exposure to the worlds of raw materials, compounding, clinical research organizations, product and packaging engineering, proof of concept validation, and safety and efficacy testing.

I developed my knowledge of the global beauty industry while employed at Pierre Fabre Dermocosmetics, where I oversaw the US marketing and product development teams for the Glytone and Eau Thermale brands as well as the commercialization of chemical peels and sunscreen formulas. I was subsequently hired to assist the professional skincare brand SkinCeuticals (L’Oréal) in elevating marketing and leading innovation that included medical devices, back bar items, and topical skincare. I was selected for this role due to my collaborative leadership style and imaginative qualities. As the brand’s AVP of Marketing, I launched the Skinceuticals flagship concept, hosted numerous physician advisory boards and consumer focus groups, accelerated digital activations for B2B and D2C channels, and was at the forefront of defining integrated aesthetic offerings and retail activations. I collaborated with companies like Clarisonic, Dermablend, and Hydrafacial and worked alongside many industry luminaries.

I was prepared for my next endeavor—becoming a co-founder—by my work at L’Oreal, the world’s top beauty firm and a marketing and branding powerhouse. I co-founded Clinical Skin, a brand of high-end skincare products and facial tools, by fusing my corporate experience with indie ingenuity and a passion for scientific skincare. With a demonstrated history of consumer-centric brand building, I created the brand from scratch and custom-developed award-winning formulations across multiple product categories.

I now devote my time to developing a men’s brand and a range of spa-quality formulas. Additionally, I provide startup companies and mid-sized venture-backed businesses with concept-to-counter solutions, business development, and strategic growth advisement.

MUNY: Given your extensive experience in the skincare industry, what trends have you observed regarding the evolving relationship between skincare and makeup? How do these two aspects intersect and influence each other in today’s beauty landscape?

In my opinion, skincare and makeup are complementary aspects of personal maintenance and beauty that work well together. In actuality, having healthy skin makes for the ideal canvas for applying makeup and reduces the quantity of product required to achieve the desired appearance. If your skin is healthy and nourished, your makeup will stay much longer.

For quite some time, beauty consumers’ priorities have shifted towards favoring skin wellness and health above anti-aging (proactive and preventative approach; healthy aging). As the biggest organ of the body, the skin is looked at through a lens of health and examined from the perspective of wellness. An emerging trend of wellness beauty is taking center stage with the microbiome, the skin barrier, and substances like ceramides and probiotics/postbiotics in the spotlight.

As consumers gain more understanding about the structure of the skin and search for nourishing, replenishing actives, there is an increasing need for skin soothing and skin barrier strengthening solutions. They are seeking antioxidants, botanicals, and ceramide-enhanced formulas that provide the groundwork for strengthening the skin barrier and safeguarding the microbiota.

Skinification of makeup is a fast-expanding industry sector. By adding skincare actives, modifying formats, and broadening indications, cosmetics brands are capitalizing on this trend. For commercial success, several are introducing color cosmetics with skincare infusions, “borrowing” skin-benefiting promises and claims, and incorporating nourishing ingredients and skin science into their own products. Hybrid skincare-makeup products, especially those that address skin tone and texture, are here to stay even if multitasking products have long been in vogue.

As consumer interest in and awareness of ingredients rises, the skincare-forward cosmetics and skin-nourishing makeup categories are also expanding. I’ve been observing a lot of foundations infused with botanicals (like aloe vera), niacinamide-enhanced BB creams, squalane, vitamin E, hyaluronic acid-powered “everything”, as well as peptides appearing on the front labels of makeup products, and the list goes on. Not to be overlooked are color cosmetics with SPF in a range of formats and textures, as well as antioxidant-based formulas with anti-pollution claims. All of these skincare-inspired makeup hybrids were first created to meet the need for makeup that is good for the skin. They are now practically two items in one. Skin-beneficial ingredients have become a point of difference for many cosmetic companies, from mass-market to luxury.

MUNY: The beauty industry is constantly evolving, with new technologies and consumer preferences shaping the market. In your opinion, what are some of the current trends or emerging innovations in skincare and makeup that professionals in the industry should be aware of?

The beauty business has seen a transition in recent years, spurred by a variety of trends that have redefined how we view, shop for, and use beauty. These trends, which range from the clean, green movement to inclusiveness, sustainability, and personalization to technology-driven innovations and do-it-yourself (DIY), have changed the kind of goods and services available as well as the expectations of consumers. We may anticipate more disruptive trends in the future because the beauty business is always evolving, thanks to new technical developments as well as social and cultural influences.

I’ve included several important themes that I think will soon acquire traction:

1.         Demand For Men’s Beauty Products Is Growing

The male grooming style has also been greatly influenced by TikTok. While the number of searches for “men’s skincare routine” has climbed 325% in the last five years, the hashtag #mensskincare presently has almost 1 billion views on TikTok. Male cosmetics and makeup are becoming more popular among males. 15% of American men between the ages of 18 and 65 now use these products, and 17% would consider doing so in the future.

2.         Silver spender

I had the privilege of witnessing the FIT’s Capstone Research presentation by the CFMM Master’s Program class of 2023, which is where the term “silver spender”—used to describe customers who are 60 and over—was coined.  The silver spenders might not be “ultra rich,” but they are empty-nesters, have assets and disposable income, and are content with their lives. Their financial security enables them to spend money on things that make them happy and beauty (feeling beautiful) is a big part of it. While GenZ is now the focus of many beauty companies, it would be negligent not to have a marketing plan that caters to individuals who are 60 and older.

3.         Hyper personalization (one size does not fit all)

The industry is now beginning to understand that identical ingredients, product formats, and colors don’t function the same for every user. Beauty organizations are attempting to leverage augmented reality and advanced biotech to hyper-personalization product selection or create products that are tailored to one’s unique skin type, skin concern, makeup needs and preferences, and lifestyle.

Technology, such as interactive online quizzes, which allow beauty firms to replace the formulaic approach to customer problems with algorithm-powered product solutions that appeal to beauty consumers, makes product personalization feasible. Products that are “perfected” or “personalized” keep customers loyal to the brand and the revenue coming in.

4.         Science-based ingredients

Innovation, customer interest in scientifically based actives, and product performance are what drive the market. The current beauty consumer is knowledgeable about ingredients, product-hungry, and eager to adopt trends. They do insist that the ingredients in their cosmetics and skincare products are kind to the skin and have been well-researched and proven beneficial for overall skin health. Novel ingredients and exclusive technologies are in demand, viewed as unique and deserving of a premium price point.

MUNY: As the ambassador of MakeUp in NewYork, what do MakeUp in™ shows represent to you?

MakeUp in is a great networking and educational platform that showcases the very latest innovations and technologies in beauty and personal care. It is the perfect place for emerging indie brands and established legacy brands to explore a multitude of opportunities and elevate their beauty business to new heights.

MakeUp in shows have been a part of my life for years, and I always leave excited about the insights I’ve learned from other attendees and new vendors I’ve discovered. Being surrounded by peers in the cosmetic space, networking, sharing best practices, and exchanging ideas has been an exciting experience for me.

There is no better place to find newness and quality and reputable suppliers than MakeUp in Show, a one-stop shop for beauty executives, brand managers, retailers, and beauty startups. Many of the vendors I have worked with over the years were found at MakeUp in Show, from primary and secondary packaging suppliers, printers, CROs, contract manufacturers, private label companies, ingredient suppliers, testing facilities, merchandising and accessories vendors, retail partners, sampling manufacturers, and more. I enjoy walking the show floor and seeing my products proudly displayed by vendors as examples of their work.

MUNY: How do you view your role as an ambassador for MakeUp in NewYork?

Having been named a MakeUp in NewYork ambassador, I hope to spread awareness about the show through my network. It is my goal to demystify the MakeUp in franchise as a show solely devoted to color cosmetics. There is a wealth of resources, networking opportunities, educational content, and vendors on the exhibitor floor targeted at the skincare industry.

MUNY: This year, for the first time, a new category called “The Ambassador Skincare Crush” will be introduced in the IT Awards. Could you share your thoughts on this exciting addition and your involvement in the competition experience?

I look forward to being the Honorary Jury Member for the IT Awards and hosting the award ceremony. It is a great privilege to be able to assess first-to-market skincare technologies and developments made by MakeUp in vendors.

“The Ambassador Skincare Crush” award is exceptionally dear to me, given my love for science (my inner geek will soak up everything), my background in product development, my passion for innovation, and a general fascination with beauty. I am an ingredient and formulary expert on one hand and a consumer on the other. I am delighted to have the honor of selecting someone else’s work of art, a beauty innovation of tomorrow, for “The Ambassador Skincare Crush” award.